Indonesia speed prowess in the qualifiers (Photo World Climbing)
Indonesia made a strong statement in the speed men’s qualification at the World Climbing Series Santiago with the USA leading the way in the women’s event.
Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi topped the men’s standings in 4.92 seconds, narrowly edging compatriot Raharjati Nursamsa, who clocked 4.93.
In the women’s competition, USA’s Emma Hunt finished well clear of the field with a time of 6.41 seconds, ahead of Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in 6.61.
The qualification round also brought a breakthrough for New Zealand’s Helen Lee, who set a new Oceania record and secured her first-ever place in a 16-athlete final.
Indonesia claimed three of the top four positions in the men’s qualification, with Aditya Tri Syahria finishing fourth in 4.96 seconds. Olympic champion Veddriq Leonardo also advanced, placing 10th in 5.07, while world record holder Zhao Yicheng of China finished 12th in 5.09.
Team USA also enjoyed a strong showing, qualifying four climbers for Saturday’s final. Michael Hom led the US contingent in fifth place with 4.97 seconds, followed by six-time gold medallist Samuel Watson in eighth with 5.03.
Another American to watch is Taede Mai, who finished ninth in 5.06 seconds and secured his second final appearance of the season in just his third-ever World Climbing Series start.
“It felt pretty good. My first one was a little sloppy, but my second race was good,” Mai said. “The wall felt a bit slow. There weren’t many sub-five races, but I don’t actually mind the slow wall as much.”
Looking ahead to the final, Mai has a clear target: breaking the five-second barrier.
“Hopefully with my first race, but all I’m looking for, really, is to run a sub-five time, because it’ll be my first one officially.”
In the women’s qualification, Emma Hunt delivered the fastest performance of the round, stopping the clock at 6.41 seconds. Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi followed in second place with 6.61, setting up an intriguing battle for the medals.
However, one of the most significant stories of the round belonged to New Zealand’s Helen Lee. Her time of 7.35 seconds established a new Oceania record and, more importantly, earned her a place in the final for the first time in her career.
“I’m feeling so shocked, relieved, everything,” Lee said. “It’s actually only my second World Climbing event with a top-16 final, so I didn’t expect to make it through at all, and I only just skimmed my way in. So I’m really excited to fight tomorrow. I will try to get a good run and see how it goes.”
Lee was pleased with the wall conditions, although she suggested that the wind might have affected some athletes’ performances.
“I don’t find any issue with the wall. Maybe it’s not the most grippy, like a texture, but it was okay. Maybe it was just the wind putting people off.”
The New Zealander had arrived in Santiago hoping to improve on her previous best, having clocked faster times in training in the weeks leading up to the competition.
“I did expect to get a record here, because I’d gone faster in training and I trained pretty hard the last few weeks. So I did expect to beat my time. I don’t know by how much.”
The opening day also marked an emotional milestone for New Zealand Speed Climbing, as Paris 2024 Olympian Sarah Tetzlaff competed in what she recently announced would be her final race before retiring from competition.
Lee paid tribute to her teammate, highlighting the role Tetzlaff has played in her own development and in establishing the foundations of Speed climbing in New Zealand.
“I’m so inspired by her. And even me being here today is because of her. She helped, she consoled me in my first competition that went very poorly, and she encouraged me to keep going. She’s the reason why we were all here today. So she’s made so much progress in the sport.”
Lead Series leader Suzuki tops men’s qualification
Suzuki Neo of Japan continued his impressive 2026 campaign by taking first place in the men’s Lead qualification at the World Climbing Series Santiago 2026. The current leader of the Lead Series Ranking presented by Euroholds scored 47+ on the first route and 36+ on the second to finish at the top of the standings.
Indonesia’s Putra Tri Ramadani, currently second in the Series Ranking, also advanced comfortably, placing fourth with scores of 40 and 36+. With Suzuki holding a 760-point advantage over the Indonesian, the Santiago competition offers another opportunity for the Japanese climber to strengthen his grip on the season-long standings.
The standout moment of the qualification round belonged to Switzerland’s Jonas Utelli, who recorded the only top across both routes after being granted a second attempt on the first route following a technical incident.
Utelli’s qualification did not get off to a straightforward start. A spinning foothold interrupted his first ascent, allowing him to reclimb the route. The Swiss climber seized the opportunity, reaching the top on his second attempt before adding 29+ on the second route to finish third overall.
“Well, qualification started pretty, not bad, but with a big surprise with a spinning foothold, a small technical incident. But then I got the only top in the first qualification route. I felt a little bit rusty down low, but then got better and better,” Utelli said.
Having to repeat a substantial portion of a competition route presented its own mental challenge, as he explained.
“It’s always special to do a second go in a competition route for the first 30 moves I already did. You tend to change everything and compare it, so it’s for sure a small mental challenge, but I think I managed it well and was still able to climb quite freely in the second go.”
Beyond his performance on the wall, Utelli has been enjoying his first visit to South America.
“I’m feeling really good. And we are enjoying Chile. It’s my first time in South America. Nice country, good vibes, nice crowd. So really enjoying it.”
Chile’s Joaquin Urrutia gave the home crowd another reason to celebrate, qualifying for his second-ever Lead semi-final. His previous appearance at this stage came at the World Climbing Series Chamonix 2026, approximately three months ago.
The USA also secured three places in the next round, including two familiar names with strong connections to the Americas.
Tokyo 2020 Olympic silver medallist Nathaniel Coleman will compete in a Lead semi-final for the first time since 2022, marking a return to the stage after several seasons away from the discipline’s top 16.
Jesse Grupper also advanced, returning to a venue that holds particularly fond memories. Three years ago, the American won the Pan American Games on the same wall, securing his qualification for the Paris 2024 Olympic Games in the process.
Grupper was pleased with his opening performance, although the second route presented a different challenge.
“The first route went really well for me. I feel like it allowed me to recover a little bit right towards the head wall. And then I was able to give a good fight at the top. The second route wasn’t as good for me. I had a bit of dry fire on the right hand. But overall, really psyched.”
