Putra Tri Ramadani (Photo World Climbing)
After a day of Boulder qualification in World Climbing Series Prague, it was time for the Lead climbers to show their stuff and aim for a semi-final spot
In the men’s competition tops were tough to come by. So tough that only one climber made one top – that was Japan’s Sorato Anraku who leads a team of six Japanese men into a Prague semi-final.
Although Anraku was had the only top, and was leading a team that includes Satone Yoshida and Neo Suzuki, he was not first at the end of the round. That honour went to Indonesia’s Putra Tri Ramadani – Anraku was second overall.
Making up the top five was Spain’s Alberto Ginés López who was third, sandwiched between Tri Ramadani and Anraku above and Suzuki and Yoshida below.
In joint fifth with Yoshida was Italy’s Giovanni Placchi who will be joined in the semi-final by his younger brother, Ernesto who was 22nd.
The older Placchi not only enjoyed the day’s climbing, but has been enjoying the experience as a whole.
Talking about qualification Placchi said: “I’m quite happy with my climbing. In the first route I had an amazing run where I was second, and in the second it was a bit less as I was a bit more relaxed because I already knew I was in. Fifth overall is a good position to go into the semi-final round. I’m excited for Sunday.”
About the venue and Prague Placchi said: “Adam [Ondra] told me already it was going to be cool, but I didn’t expect such a sick venue. As soon as I went in I was super excited and already my mind went to the finals.
“I feel like I am in a World Champs already because of the venue and all the OGs here like Adam and Jakob [Schubert]. It’s such an honour to climb with those guys and I hope I can do it for all rounds.”
Placchi will definitely climb with both Ondra and Schubert in the semi-final as the Czech climber was 13th and the Austrian tenth.
The current Lead world champion Dohyun Lee made it through in 15th and was joined by teammates Hyunseung Noh and Kibeom Kwon.
The final two spots went to two German climbers with Sebastian Halenke in 23rd and Yannick Flohe in 24th.
There were more tops in the women’s competition with both USA’s Annie Sanders and South Korea’s Chaehyun Seo making two for a share of first place.
Others to top one route were Slovenia’s Lucka Rakovec, Bulgaria’s Aleksandra Totkova, Netherlands’ Lynn Van Der Meer, USA’s Ella Fisher and Austria’s Jessica Pilz. All made it through to the semi-final.
After qualification Totkova said: “I’m really happy with my first route as I climbed super free and it was my style. I really enjoyed it. The second I got a bit angry as I fell on the jump, but we have other rounds so we will see.”
Speaking about her climbing Totkova said: “I wanted to do my best and I can see I am in good shape, so I want more. Everyone wants to go to the final, and I want one of those places. I need a good mindset, which I think I have.”
Indonesia also has a women’s semi-finalist as Tsany Alma Ariella made it through in 11th and Brazil’s Anja Köhler will also mix it with the bigger climbing nations after finishing in 18th.
After an injury in her nation’s selection event, Molly Thompson-Smith was unsure if she would make it onto the World Climbing Series in 2026, but she returns with a steady qualification finishing in 16th.
In the 24th and final spot was Austria’s Mattea Pötzi who will be hoping to move up the rankings in the semi-final to make the last eight and progress to the final round and a shot at the podium.
