Janja Garnbret (Photo World Climbing)
The World Climbing Series Innsbruck concluded in dramatic fashion with two Lead finals, but the night ultimately belonged to Janja Garnbret of Slovenia, who secured the 50th gold medal of her career at World Cup or World Climbing Series level.
Nearly 10 years after winning her first senior gold medal in Chamonix, France, on 12 July 2016, the Slovenian once again stood atop the podium, adding another chapter to one of the most remarkable careers in climbing history.
The Slovenian’s latest triumph was her 32nd gold medal in Lead, adding to the 18 Boulder victories she has accumulated throughout her career. Her first senior victory came almost a decade ago in Chamonix, France, when the then 17-year-old won ahead of Belgium’s Anak Verhoeven and – perhaps fittingly – Kim Ja In.
Since then, Garnbret has become the most successful climber of her generation, also collecting 10 Climbing World Championship titles across Boulder and Lead, most recently at the IFSC Climbing World Championships Seoul 2025.
“It feels absolutely incredible!” she commented. “I have to be honest, the 50th win was in the back of my mind for quite some time, but I was trying to play it cool, not think about it too much. Today I was feeling like it was my day, I felt super good, and Innsbruck brings the best out of me.
“Fifty is crazy! I’m immensely grateful for all the love and support that I get.
“I will set some new goals soon, I’ve always said that Bibliographie was the biggest goal of the season, now I got the 50th gold, I guess celebration is in order now!”
Annie Sanders of the USA claimed silver with 38+, adding another medal to an already extraordinary fortnight. After winning Lead gold medals in Wujiang and Prague, and women’s Boulder gold in Innsbruck two days earlier, Sanders once again found herself on the podium.
The achievement underlined the rapid rise of the American climber: when Garnbret won her first World Cup gold in Chamonix in 2016, Sanders was just eight years old.
Bronze went to Seo Chaehyun of South Korea with 36+. Chaehyun continued her remarkable consistency by reaching the podium at all three Lead events contested in 2026. After winning bronze in Wujiang and silver in Prague, Chaehyun added another third place in Innsbruck.
Like Sanders, Chaehyun belongs to a generation that grew up watching Garnbret dominate the sport: on the day the Slovenian won her first senior gold medal, Chaehyun was 12 years old.
SUZUKI PREVAILS IN COUNTBACK THRILLER
The men’s final produced one of the closest finishes of the season, with Suzuki Neo of Japan and Alberto Ginés López of Spain both reaching 42+ on the route.
With the scores identical, the gold medal was decided by countback to the semi-final round, where Suzuki had placed ahead of Ginés López. The Japanese climber therefore secured victory, while the Spaniard had to settle for silver once again.
“I just wanted to win at this awesome venue,” said Suzuki moments after the flower ceremony. “I’m very happy!”
When asked whether he is currently in the best climbing shape of his life, Suzuki replied: “Absolutely!”
The win gave Suzuki his third medal of the Lead Series 2026 after taking gold in Wujiang, China, and silver in Prague, Czechia. For Ginés López, the silver medal extended one of the sport’s most unusual streaks: the Spaniard has now won 11 medals at World Cup or World Climbing Series level, all of them silver or bronze.
Home favourite Jakob Schubert of Austria completed the men’s podium with bronze after scoring 42, narrowly missing out on the countback battle for gold and silver.
The medal was the 56th of Schubert’s illustrious career at World Cup or World Climbing Series level, drawing him level with South Korean legend Kim Ja In on the all-time list.
