Neo Suzuki (Photo World Climbing)
Japan’s Neo Suzuki ticked of a big season goal winning the Asian Games Lead title, and he is trying to tick another off his list aiming for the 2026 overall win as Climbing returns to South America following the debut on the world stage in Brazil last season.
Santiago, Chile hosts the final stage of the Speed and Lead disciplines where the winners of the World Climbing Series will be crowned at the Bicentenario Cerrillos Park.
In the Lead, one of those climbers in a great position to win is Suzuki.
Fresh off a gold at the Asian Games 2026 in Nagoya, Japan, Suzuki can cap a big year by taking the overall title, and he has a cushion back to his nearest rival, Indonesia’s Putra Tri Ramadani, thanks to his three gold’s and one silver so far.
Asked about his Asian Games win Suzuki said: “That was my biggest goal of the season for me, and I was so happy to win.”
Starting back in May in Wujiang, China, the Lead competitions have visted Prague, Czechia; Innsbruck, Austria; Chamonix, France; and Koper, Slovenia before heading to Santiago, and talking about the season Suzuki said: “I’m feeling really good, it’s been a long season, but I am still feeling very motivated and excited to compete. I don’t want to focus too much on getting the overall title, just focus on my climbing and do my best.”
Travel is a bit part of an athlete’s life, and with a trip of around 24 hours for Suzuki, climbing isn’t the most immediate thing on his mind: “I still have a few days before I have to climb so for now it’s about focussing on my recovery.
“It’s my first time to Chile so I will do some sightseeing and enjoy the city and the food. I’m excited to look around. Me, Sorato and Satone are going to go and do a few tourist things.”
Bringing the focus back to the climbing though, Suzuki knows what he could achieve in Santiago: “To win the overall title would be one of the best achievements of my career, but I don’t want to put too much pressure on myself because then I won’t climb as I want to or need to. There is a bit of pressure, but I try not to let it affect me or think about it too much. I just want to enjoy climbing, and I can be happy after if I win.”
Mentioning his teammates Sorato Anraku and Satone Yoshida, both will be in action with both coming to Santiago on the back of very different results. Yoshida won silver behind Suzuki at the Asian Games while Anraku, who despite taking the overall Boulder title for the year, failed to make it out of qualification in Salt Lake City last week – no doubt he will be hoping for more this time around.
Tri Ramadani will have to target a very high result, and hope Suzuki finishes low down the order to win the overall title, but he will be confident for a medal push after winning his first gold of his career this year.
It seems strange to say that Spain’s Alberto Ginés López also won his first World Climbing Series gold this year considering his achievements, but the constant high performer and serial medallist will be looking to add to his maiden victory in Santiago now he has a taste of gold.
Of the 59 men registered to start in Santiago, one especially has fond memories of the city – USA’s Jesse Grupper. The venue hosting the competition is the same venue that hosted the Pan American Games in 2023, and Grupper won that event not only taking the title but securing a place at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
The women’s series should be confirmed as an Annie Sanders win with neither her nor her closest rival Chaehyun Seo in action. Currently in second in the overall, Seo should mathematically be set for a top three finish, but she could be pushed down to third if the current holder of that position finishes highly…and that climber is Janja Garnbret.
Slovenian Garnbret has won the two golds in Innsbruck and Koper, but as she hasn’t competed in every event, she cannot reach Sander’s tally – but Seo is well within her sights.
Garnbret is joined by teammates Rosa Rekar and Lucka Rakovec in Santiago, and they go up against climbers like Italy’s Laura Rogora and Austria’s Pötzi from Europe.
Representing Oceania, is Oceania as Mackenzie comes down to South America fresh off a podium spot in the Boulder overall series for the season.
Brazil’s Anja Köhler and Argentina’s Valentina Aguado will be flying the flags for their South American countries while Martina Castro is the current South American Lead champion taking that win in Santa Fe, Argentina last month.
Khalkevych in the hunt for a senior series win
Winning medals in Speed on the World Climbing Series isn’t a walk in the park. You need to be on form, you need to get your tactics right, you need to have a bit of luck sometimes, but Khalkevych has been near the top of the standings at most of the events this year – and considering it’s her first senior season that is an impressive feat.
Talking about her first senior season in which she currently sits second in the series rankings, Khalkevych said: “My first senior season went way better than I expected. I’m thrilled with my performances and am completely focused on what’s next.”
As we said, Speed climbing can depend on many things, but there was one main factor in deciding the plan for the season for Khalkevych: “My plan depended entirely on my form. But after a strong start at the Ukrainian Championship, the next obvious goal was the first World Climbing Series event, and after that result, we planned the rest of the season.”
With a plan based on form sorted, it was time to set goals for the year: “Winning the overall title wasn’t the initial plan, but now it definitely is.
This year was all about gaining experience and preparing for next season’s Olympic qualifiers. Coming straight from the junior ranks, I needed as many senior starts as possible to make sure I’m mentally and physically ready for what’s ahead.”
Santiago is the final event of the series, and Khalkevych has some points to catch up on USA’s Emma Hunt who sits above her in first position, so breaking the goal down to the single event Khalkevych said: “My main goal in Santiago is to deliver clean, stable runs and, of course, to contend for the overall World Climbing Series title.”
In a season that has brought many highlights including two silver medals on the World Climbing Series, what stands out for Khalkevych?
“My favorite moment was the start of the season, dropping my time from 7.1 to 6.3 seconds was a massive breakthrough. I was also thrilled to prove I could fight for the podium and stay mentally sharp in my first major international events.”
Looking at the start list for the women’s Speed there are climbers who are capable of winning a medal, and have done on many occasions, and probably the one that does stand out is Hunt who is the first woman to go under six seconds and is the current leader of the series rankings.
China as always brings a strong team with Lijuan Deng fresh off a silver at the Asian Games. Deng was beaten to gold in that competition by Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita who is also in Santiago.
Some of the Europeans who have made the trip are Olympians like France’s Capucine Viglione, Spain’s Leslie Romero Pérez and Poland’s Aleksandra Kalucka.
Fighting for top spot in the men’s overall rankings are Japan’s Ryo Omasa, China’s Yicheng Zhao and Indonesia’s Antasyafi Robby Al Hilmi – and all are in Santiago, so the competition will be fierce.
It’s not just about the three current leaders, USA’s Sam Watson and Zach Hammer have made the trip south and there is also Asian Games winner Shouhong Chu and Olympic gold medallist Veddriq Leonardo from Indonesia.
Looking at the European contingent, former world champion Matteo Zurloni of Italy is in Chile, there’s Germany’s Leander Carmanns, Austria’s Kevin Amon, Spain’s Erik Noya Cardona – the list goes on.
You even have Oceania record holder Julian David from New Zealand representing the continent with Australia’s Hayden Barton.
